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MG MGA - Moss steering rack assembly

Hi,

I remember there was a post about this a while ago, but I couldn't find it when I searched for it. Anyways, I got my alignment checked, and the guy who did it told me that my inner and outer tie rods are so worn that it I really need to replace them soon before I have to worry about the ball joints popping out. Since it's a safety issue, I figured it was probably a good idea to just replace the whole steering rack.

Does anyone here have experience with Moss's steering rack? What about others like Victoria British? Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks,

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian, I've had bad luck buying parts from Moss and buy from anyone else to avoid them.....Dennis
DSS Suski

Darian, taking the opposite side I've had nothing but good luck with Moss parts and superior service thru Little British Car Co (Jeff Zorn) in Detroit. While I have not replaced my steering rack with Moss parts I did replace both tie rod ends because of wear and everything worked and fit as it should. My whole on frame restoration was done exclusively with Moss parts thru Little British and I have had no issues. Your question does cause me to ask though .... why you would go to the extent of replacing the entire rack to correct just the worn tie rod ends ?? Tie rod ends are what wear and that is why they are replaceable. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Mike
1960 MGA
Michael Hosier

Thanks, Mike. Maybe I was overreacting. It's just when the mechanic was talking about them popping out it scared me a little. (OK, it scared me a lot. I take my kids for rides in this car.)

Is it only the tie rod ends that get loose? What about the inner tie rods. Sorry, I'm not an expert about these things.

Thanks,

Darian
Darian Henderson

I'll defer to the experts for comment as I'm not one either. I imagine that if the rack hasn't been oiled properly then there is risk of wear inside as well. I would think a closer inspection by your mechaninc should be enough to determine if the whole rack or just the ends need to be dealt with. Maybe a second mechanics's opinion would be advisable too. Hopefully someone else on the board will be able to better direct you. I take my grandkids in mine so I echo the safety concerns. Best of luck !!

Mike
Michael Hosier

Hi Darian

The outer ball joints are easy to replace, and are very cheap.

The inner ball joints can be adjusted for wear by removing a shim inside the joint - if you can get the balljoint to unscrew. I have had ones that have been really easy, others just will not budge whatever you do. For the inner joints to be in any danger of "popping out" you would have a couple of inches free play in the steering - I cannot imagine that it could happen even then.

I'd just replace the outer joints - it's very unlikely that the inner joints are seriously worn, but you should check that they are indeed firmly screwed onto the end of the rack (inside the rubber boots, they screw into the end of the rack). Then you can check that there is no more play in the steering before taking the car to have the alignment redone.

I also can't imagine that there is more than one cpmpany manufacturing the new racks. They are most likely from the same supplier, regardless of who is selling them, as is often the case with model-specific parts like this. I'd think that if the inner joints you should be able to turn up another original rack fairly easily (its not like LHD racks are rare like the RHD ones) and then just use the outer pieces and new outer ball joints.

BTW if you do have to change the rack, you can get it out without dropping the front chassis extension if you remove the steering shaft downwards (remove the brass top-hat cover) and remove the two tie rods from the rack (they just unscrew from the rack inside the boots) and then you have enough clearance to get the centre section out through the cutouts in the chassis extension)

I'd strongly suggest switching the outer ball joints and then having another look. They are probably not delivered with a new rack anyway.
dominic clancy

Thanks Dominic. You're right that the outer ball joints are sold separately.

Just to make sure I understand you, to adjust the inner ball joint, you remove #15 on the link below and remove the shim (#16). How does removing the shim help?

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29223

Sorry, just trying to understand.

Thanks,

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian,
This page on Barney's site has a good picture of the inner ball joint. http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/sr202.htm

The part #15 in the moss diagram is a cap the inner surface of which is the bearing surface for the ball joint. The shims adjust how far the cap screws on, so removing shims lets the cap screw on more making the clearance between it and the ball tighter. Like Dominic said, it is hard to imagine it being so worn that it was in danger of coming apart.

This page shows how to disassemble and service the rack, and near the bottom describes disassembling the inner ball joints.
http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/a_rack/

Jeff


Jeff Schultz

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian, you need special tools to replace the inner tie rod ends, and it requires the removal of the rack which is quite extensive and expensive. It's probably more cost effective to replace the whole rack with an after market one. The one from VB is a different one piece type of rack and requires the removal of the front extension to install which is very time consuming. I don't know about Moss but I'd expect it's the same. If you need inner tie rod ends you'd be better off buying a second hand rack from Scarborough Faire or on Ebay, which can be installed without removing the front extension because they come apart as the original.

I'd start by replacing the outer tie rod ends and see what improvements there is.

Andy
Andy Preston

Darien, I just went through this issue on mine. I replaced my rack with one from Vicky Brit, works good. I am not sure if they are the same as Moss. I also debated rebuilding over replacing and came to the conclusion that replacing was a lot less work and about even in cost when you price all of the parts (ball housing $59 ea, lockwasher $ 12.95 ea.) and tools you'd need to rebuild. The only down side to the installation of the new rack required pulling the front valance and bumper assembly (about 2 hours labor). Call or e-mail me if you have any questions on how to remove/install the easy way. If your at the meeting tonight we'll talk more then.

Norm
J Dick

You don't need to remove the steering rack assembly to service inner ball ends. Just pull the rubber boot back and unscrew the inner ball end from the rack. Try tio save the locktab cup. Otherwise the locktab cup is (almost) cheap enough to replace. Disassembling the inner ball joint for adjustment might be easy enough, or could be a nightmare.

You don't need to remove the front bumper or valance to remove the steering rack. It is easier to remove the bronze front cap and pull the pinion shaft, then slide the rest of the rack assembly out the side.
Barney Gaylord

This thread was discussed between 03/10/2008 and 08/10/2008

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